Rwanda’s capital is full of surprise and charm, always lingering long in the memory. Markets are laden with an atmosphere as fresh as the fruit that fills the stalls while the cleanliness is remarkable, far exceeding almost any city in the world. Locals are keen to share stories, and an old French influence is seen in the cafes. You are greeted at the airport and have a private guide for the day who can customize a tour to your interests. The National Genocide Centre provides essential viewing for an understanding of the context in the lead up to the events of 1994. More personal and moving is the Nyamata Church Memorial, a building left untouched, stacked full of bones and bloodied rags. There is also the modern face of Kigali to explore, like cocktails around a pool and a couple of outstanding restaurants for the evening.