Slow Food & Leisurely Wine Tour of Southern Italy and Sicily

The aroma of fresh-baked brioche drifts out of the bakeries of Catania in the morning. Cafes serve the soft, sweet buns besides the refreshing chilled citrus flavors of granitas, a semi-frozen dessert. Your guide greets you in the hotel lobby after breakfast, eager to lead you on an immersive tour of the baroque splendor, ancient foundations, and enticing treats of the city. The fish market opens before sunrise with fishermen brining their daily catches to the lanes displaying mounds of anchovies, boxes of mussels, and gorgeous mullets ready to be served with onions. The aroma of arancini, stuffed, fried rice balls, drifts from popular street vendors near the public piazzas.

You wander through the delicate aromatics and arrive at the Duomo, the city’s main cathedral framing the principal piazza at the edge of Via Etnea. The cathedral was rebuilt in the 18th century after the destructive earthquake in the 1600s that nearly demolished the town. The elephant at the center of the piazza and was modeled after Bernini’s Elephant in Rome. The elephant was crafted out of black-lava stone and surmounted by a soaring Egyptian obelisk. The cathedral façade glistens with streaks of silver in the sunlight beneath the elaborate dome. The Fountain of Amenano marks the entrance to the bustling fish market.

The flavors of Sicily emanate from the mixture of cultures, enriched by the surrounding landscape and shaped by the artistic aesthetic of the vintners. After breakfast, your guide leads you to the baroque city of Noto to wander amongst the 17th-century churches, houses, and palaces framing Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Pass through the stunning 19th-century Porta Reale Gateway and explore the city before entering the Nero d’Avola wine region. Vines spread across the hills and valley growing an abundance of Nero d’Avola, the most popular red grape of the region. Almond trees grow in groves dividing the vineyards, with lemons thriving near Syracuse and melons rumbling along the pebbled grounds closer to Noto.

A mixture of sweet, tart, and savory herbaceous aromas emanate from the olive trees, artichoke vines, and tomato plants growing near the dangling purple grapes. Your guide leads you on a tour of your first winery, producing wines in the region since 2002. The cellar features brick floors beneath a vaulted, white ceiling retaining the cool subterranean temperature. Stacked oak barrels contain the fruits of the vineyard’s labor, filling the air with a saccharine scent. You learn about the modernized irrigation systems of the region and the winery’s vines growing out of clay and rich, volcanic minerals that feed the grapes while also fortifying the flavor. In the tasting room, your guide pours a sample of the Nero D’Avola, finding scents of dark cherry and prune drifting from the glass.

The morning light washes over the cobblestone streets of the city center, allowing patrons of the cafes to enjoy the warmth of the city at the outdoor tables. They sip frothy cappuccinos and nibble at fresh ciambella, a large donut coated in granulated sugar. Your private transfer greets you in the hotel after breakfast and escorts you way from Catania, making your way to Messina. The city crowns the eastern edges of Sicily, standing only a few miles from the coast of mainland Italy.

The harbor fills with fishing boats returning from the open sea, barges ready to set out into the waters, and ferries traveling to and from Calabria across the strait. Messina remains an important transport center for Sicily and the whole of Italy. Wide boulevards wind through the heart of Messina framed by elegant buildings erected at the turn of the 20th century. Restaurants highlight swordfish as the catch of the day, emphasizing the tender meat celebrated by seafood lovers the world over.

Visit Piazza del Duomo to relish the daily life of the city amidst the preserved historic architecture, embellished by the gorgeous 16th-century Orion Fountain. The bell tower was originally erected in the 18th century to complement the 12th-century cathedral constructed by the Romans. The tower stands nearly 200 feet tall and was decorated with an astronomical clock highlighting the history of the city. You find a hint of the sea drifting along the streets, accompanied by the captivating aromas of grilled swordfish fading to the spiced aroma of canestrato cheese.

In the morning, you can see the indigo and sapphire hues of the Tyrrhenian Sea from your window. The breeze carries the sweet and salty aroma of the water through the gorgeous promenade of your hotel. The palm trees rustle above the walkways, leading to the white sand beaches. At breakfast, the scent of freshly baked cornetto, a croissant coated with caramelized sugar and stuffed with peach, hazelnut cream, or poached apples, accompanied by a creamy cappuccino. Your guide greets you in the morning, keen on introducing you to the often-overlooked wonders of the Calabria region, taking you first to the monastery of Santa Maria dell’Isola for views of the historic grounds perched atop a cliff overlooking the town and the coastline.

The medieval edifice resembles a fairytale castle crafted out of white stone, contrasting the cypress trees overtaking the rocky summit. The original structure was erected in the 4th century, with the surrounding town renowned for the legend of having been founded by Hercules. The structure was renovated during the Renaissance with a façade rebuilt after an early 20th-century earthquake. The interior contains a 12th-century Byzantine portrait of the Virgin Mary, accented by subtle aromas of frankincense. You follow your hunger into town to sample the enticing pecorino cheeses, spiced salami, and sweet red onion often used in salads, pastas, and sautéed with meats.

The morning light washes over the indigo waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The white stones of the city glint against the lapping waves along shoreline. At breakfast, you enjoy the delicate sweetness of a brioche garnished with homemade fig jam. Your private transfer greets you in the hotel lobby and escorts you to the unique city of Matera, stopping en route in Cosenza. The charm of Cosenza derives from the natural daily life of locals far removed from the usual tourism of many cities around Italy.

Italians and Europeans often visit the city as a stopover to Sila National Park. Antique shops fill windows with candleholders and remarkable artwork, each dating back centuries. Studios are sprouting about Old Town, with young artists eager to recapture the beauty of the city’s glory. The tan and seasoned colors of the facades continue to glow against the cobbled plazas. You continue to Matera to find a city of perched above the Gravina Gorge separated by medieval architecture spanning the hillside and a honeycomb of caves tunneled into the gorge walls.

The aroma of freshly baked bread drifts out of the bakeries along the upper-city in the morning, passing beneath the façade of San Pietro Barisano Church. The interior contains hints of myrrh settled into the walls alongside the 15th and 16th-century frescoes. An empty frame on the altarpiece recalls the decades in which the upper-city was abandoned for the network of niches carved in the gorge walls. Your guide greets you after breakfast and leads you through the streets of the upper and lower city, shining a light on Matera’s nickname the “Subterranean City.”

Remnants of communities in the area date back nearly nine millennia, with inhabitants residing in the limestone caves until the late 1960s. The white hues of the city follow the stairwells nestled between the homes and the tan colors of the church tower soaring over the cave terraces.  You enter into the Sassi to experience the preserved life that once inhabited the world beneath the medieval architecture. The cool air contrasts the mountain warmth outside.

You can view the mouths of open caves across the ravine. Inside the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, you have access to life in the caves up to 18th century, where families lived with their farm animals, including donkeys, chickens, and pigs. A bed, small table, and dresser provide insight into the décor of the time. In the afternoon, you find a spiced aroma of Pane cotto, a traditional dish of the region containing chopped onions and hot pepper fried in olive oil with water and eggs before being poured on a slice of grilled bread.

At breakfast, you indulge in the creamy texture and chocolaty aroma of a fresh cappuccino. Your private transfer greets you after the meal and escorts you to Lecce, in the region of Puglia, stopping en route in the town of Alberobello. Small white structures overtake the hillside with conical stone roofs creating a captivating, fantastical feature. The whitewashed limestone walls reflect the sunlight, keeping the interior of distinctive, historic homes cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Narrow lanes lead between the trulli, the oldest of which dates back to the 14th century.

The slanted, conical roofs help collect rainwater during the wet season. You can venture to the hill that overlooks the town for a breathtaking view of the sunlight glinting off the white walls and rounded rooftops rising like rolling knolls across the landscape. You can find shelter from the sun in a charming café filled with the aroma of fresh coffee. You sip a refreshing frozen macchiato, embracing the balance of bitter and sweet, amidst the cold. Cafes serve the popular Puglia pasta of orecchiette, which takes its name from its shape, folded to resemble ears.

The bakeries of Lecce fill their window displays with fresh fruttone, pastries, in the morning. The small, delicate shortbread cakes are stuffed with almond paste and pear marmalade beneath a top layer of chocolate icing. The pastry creates balanced arrays of buttery, rich, and sweet aromas. Your guide greets you at the hotel and leads you on a private tour of Lecce, often referred to as the “Florence of the South.” The first settlers of the region date back to prehistoric civilizations, with the beauty of the architecture preserved from the medieval, renaissance, and baroque eras. The white and tan structures feature the aesthetic of the Kingdom of Naples in the 17th century, embodied in the Basilica di Santa Croce.

The ornate façade contains images of beasts and allegorical statues connecting myth to religion and religion to daily life in the city. Sheep and dodo birds adorn the exterior amongst cherubs and gargoyles, guiding your eye upwards to the shimmering rose window at the center of the upper-story. The interior contains four aisles framed by the intricately adorned columns. You continue your exploration of Lecce inside a private kitchen, under the guidance of a celebrated private chef. The kitchen already contains hints of creamy extra virgin olive oil and herbaceous basil. The chef introduces you to the staple ingredients utilized in Puglia cuisine, including eggplant, pecorino and ricotta cheeses, fresh mussels, and quality lamb to create an unforgettable meal in true regional style.

The scent of chocolate and sugar emanates from the confectionaries crafting supple mustaccioli in the morning. The nougat resembles a cookie coated in chocolate but has a cake-like consistency, with hints of cinnamon and almonds. Your guide escorts you out of Lecce for the day to the city of Otronto, located deep in the heel of Italy’s boot-like formation. The layers of Greek, Roman, Turkish, and Napoleonic history come to life along the cobbled streets of Old Town against the backdrop of gold sand beaches of the Adriatic Sea.

The imposing castle retains its ramparts leading to robust 15th-century towers opening to a small port. Fishing boats wade in the turquoise water in view of the seafood restaurants along the promenade. A cool breeze rushes over the shoreline and fades behind the historical ramparts. The cathedral was erected in the 11th century with enchanting mosaics added in the 12th century. The feature overtakes the length of the nave and depicts scenes from the Old Testament and tales of chivalry leading to an extraordinary image of the Tree of Life.

Venture outside of Otronto to visit a local winery specializing in Negroamaro di Terra d’Otranto. Olive groves shade the edges of the estate against the endless rows of vines. The estate utilizes contemporary methods with traditional techniques to ensure the best quality and integrity of the heritage of the grapes. In the tasting room, your guide pours a sample, which fills the glass with notes of refined oak and dried red fruits.

Leave behind the baroque charms of Lecce in the morning for the landmarks of Bari, en route to San Marco dei Cavoti. The aroma of the sea sweeps through the city, emanating from the Adriatic coastline. The 16th-century Palazzo Sedile dei Nobili frames the public Piazza Mercantile, where the city’s former council would meet. Mosaics adorn the grounds inside the Romanesque façade of St. Nicholas Basilica, hiding the subterranean crypts and relics. Pasta makers shape orecchiette by hand around the city center, offering a glimpse of the ease in making the traditional regional pasta when crafted by seasoned hands. The town of San Marco dei Cavoti overtakes the limestone cliffs hills in the region of Campania.

The painted tower homes contrast the gray striations of the rock and the verdant trees cascading over the precipices leading down into the lush valley. The 14th-century Provencal Tower adorns the heart of town, casting a shadow over the main piazza. The aroma of chocolate emanates from a family-owned confectionary. The picturesque village encompasses tradition, embraced by the chocolaterie, while also inspired by unique flavors and original ideas. Indulge in the flavors of decadent pralines and handmade hazelnut spread after learning about the origin of the artisan factory and the inspiration deriving from the source of the products.

You make your way to the Bay of Naples to discover the gates to the ancient city of Pompeii. The daylight washes over the pristine sapphire coastline and highlights the looming peak of Mount Vesuvius, best known for its eruption in 79 AD that preserved the ancient streets of Pompeii in ash and pumice stone. Lemon groves thrive in the region, producing fruit larger than softballs. The citrus aroma lingers in the air around the gates to the historic city. Your guide leads you on an encompassing tour of the legendary Roman port, whose streets provide remarkable understanding into the daily lives of the citizenry. Follow in the footsteps of the past Roman citizens by wandering along the cobbled lanes to reach the former Forum.

A 10-foot tall altar is all that remains of the Temple of Jupiter while 48 ionic columns connote the former Temple of Apollo. The fuming summit of Mount Vesuvius rises above the city in the background on the opposite banks of the Bay of Naples. After traversing the excavated areas of the city, including seeing the mosaics and frescoes in the House of Menander, you continue into the newer excavations before departing for Positano, located at the northern border of the Amalfi Coast. The famous coastline reaches 25 miles long, with Positano providing a perfect introduction amidst the scent of the sea mixed with vibrant lemons along the terraced homes bordering the narrow cobbled streets. Step into an artisan wine shop to learn the secrets of the refreshing citrus-based liqueur of limoncello.

The town of Ravello crowns the ridges of the Amalfi Coast’s mountains, at a height of nearly 1,200 feet above sea level. In the morning, the herbaceous aroma of wildflowers accompanies the vibrant scent of fresh espresso drifting out of the local cafes in view of the 13th-century cathedral. Locals and visitors alike venture to the 12th-century grounds of the Villa Cimbrone to enjoy the views of the Infinity Terrace, famous for remarkable panorama of the coastline stretching from the promontories in the south to the cliffs in the north. Your guide greets you after breakfast and escorts you to the ancient temples of Paestum, site of the oldest Greek settlements on mainland Italy.

Before returning to Ravello, you stop at a traditional Campanian dairy farm. Your guide leads you through the vast farmland, where cows and sheep graze on the verdant, wild grass. The farm manages to integrate modern technology with traditional practices, allowing you to enjoy the authentic milking process and churning the dairy into cheese. The farmers take pride in their product and the way in which their cheese meets the market, directly from their hands to the buyer. You watch as the farmers heat the milk and extract the curds. The farmer then churns the curds while they are still hot, turning the curds from soft to pliable.

The boats return to the shore at the small marina of Praiano. Cream-colored homes shimmer against the backdrop of limestone crags and spotted verdant forest. Stone stairwells connect the town to the peaceful shores of Vettica Beach located 300 feet below Piazza San Gennaro at the heart of town. Cafes set out tables and chairs along the cobblestones, offering patrons an unobstructed view of the coastline and the water leading to the cliffs of the Island of Capri.

In the early afternoon, the scent of grilling seafood dressed in lemon and capers fills the air, drifting out of a restaurant located in the town’s former boatyard. After breakfast, your private transfer greets you at the hotel in Ravello and escorts you to Naples International Airport for your flight home. For a fabulous addition to your time in Southern Italy, you could extend your vacation in Naples, following the tradition of culinary mastery with a private pizza cooking class.