Exploring Cinque Terre Itinerary: From Levanto to Santa Margherita

Medieval hamlets rise out of the brilliant emerald hills and woodlands of the Val di Vara. The historic route of Via Aurelia connected the coastline with Italy’s interior for hundreds of years, traversed by merchants and pilgrims alike. Your flight lands at Genoa’s Cristoforo Colombo Airport, where your private transfer greets you upon your arrival. You make your way south to the ancestral home of Niccolò Paganini, the famous Italian violinist and composer, in the commune of Carro. The lanes wind through the various homes without straight lines, surrounding the central church.

You find the aroma of pine and cypress lingering in the air. The bright homes rising atop the hill contrast the surrounding greenery and rolling knolls. Your driver points out the ancestral home of the Paganini, visible from the main piazza. The charm of the quiet village embodies the beauty of the surrounding trees and unique layout of the winding lanes, historically used to protect villagers from marauders or passing armies. An enticing smell compels you to enter a small trattoria, a traditional Italian eatery.

The scent of creamy olive oil blends with the aroma of wild herbs filling the dining room. A cool breeze sweeps across the cobblestone lanes. The local recipes offer an introduction into the culture of Liguria and the valley, with the cuisine an integral part of life and expression. The chef uses chestnut flour to make the gnocchi and dresses the typical dish in a sweet walnut sauce. Fat pappardelle noodles dance in a bowl with potatoes and green beans emanating the delectable, herbaceous scent of fresh pesto.

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The aroma of fresh espresso overtakes the morning scent of pine. The bright colors of the homes radiate beneath the church steeple. Your private transfer greets you at the hotel after breakfast and escorts you to Levanto, a coastal town just north of Monterosso. Enchantment abounds in the lesser-known town overlooking the turquoise waters and nestled into the foothills of the Mediterranean mountains. The aroma of fresh focaccia drifts down the streets, fading beneath the aroma of the sea. Fishing boats wade in the small marina near the shore.

The 13th-century Basilica of Sant’Andrea embodies the iconic Ligurian gothic style with a façade draped in black and white bands. The rose window set above the door allows for natural light to pour into the nave. Cafes and restaurants set out tables and chairs along the cobblestone streets leading to the water, allowing patrons to enjoy the quiet bustle of passersby and the relaxing sound of water lapping against the rocks. You set out onto the trail wrapping around the Punta Mesco and leading to Monterosso, the most northerly towns of Cinque Terre. The promontory juts out into the sea, offering a stunning panorama south to north.

The sea breeze carries the slight scent of rugged soil and pine. You find ruins of an 11th-century hamlet near the remnants of the former lighthouse. The water splashes onto the rocks of the coastline. Scuba divers enjoy the beauty of the clear water, finding large starfish clinging to the rocks. You wind down the steep path leading to Monterosso, enjoying the shimmering hues of blue, red, and yellow emanating from the tower homes along the beachfront. A sliver of powdery sand stretches along the wide cove and fills with beachgoers enjoying the radiant sunlight and warm atmosphere.

The sunlight washes over the remains of the 13th-century city walls lingering around the historical city center. The medieval castle of Velasco continues to watch over the town and the water from along the ridges. After breakfast, you take the scenic train through the tunnels leading to Riomaggiore, the most southerly town of Cinque Terre. Tower homes of blue and red rise along the narrow cove tapering into the mountain. The slim cobbled lanes wind around the restaurants, hotels, and homes sloping downwards to the natural harbor.

Colorful fishing boats wade in the water near the rocks. The city acts as the beginning of the classic trail connecting the five villages once sheltered from the rest of Italy due to the water in the west and the mountains in the north. The marvels of the small towns opened in the mid-19th century. The old castle offers a perfect viewing tower for visitors to enjoy the panorama of the coastline and the cliffs. The Lover’s Trail has reopened after heavy restoration due to heavy landslides in 2011.

The atmosphere along the walkway takes you beside the rock-face and above the sea. You can touch your fingers to the craggy stone and enjoy the refreshing breeze carrying mist from the splashing waves. The trail continues for less than a mile before reaching the town of Manarola, which was erected on a rocky plateau 230 feet above sea level. A boat ramp leads into the natural harbor, and the colorful homes bordering the cobblestone streets offer a picturesque ambiance against he backdrop of the turquoise Mediterranean.

In the morning, the surfers venture out into the water to catch the 12-foot tall swells. The bay to the south helps protect Levanto from the larger swells, as the waves turn into tubes around the heart of the bay. The aroma of deep fried apples drifts out of the bakeries and offers a sweet, fruity sent to the air. After breakfast, you return to Riomaggiore. The streets and tower homes feel familiar and inviting. Today, you embark on the trail south, leading along the peninsula for a challenging but rewarding walk. You climb the narrow stone stairs leading to the Sanctuary of Madonna di Montenero.

The pine forest offers the refreshing herbaceous aroma around the 15th-century edifice. The current iteration of the complex was crafted between the 16th and 17th centuries with an oval atrium. Caves dug into the hill offer quiet, hidden shrines used for religious purposes and as a refuge since ancient times. The trail follows the natural contours of the coastal cliffs, utilized by shepherds for centuries to reach the distant villages. Vineyards grow and thrive on the terraces, along with lemon groves and marvelous basil plants growing up to five feet tall.

You wind down the slope to reach the village of Campiglia. The stone homes border the steep streets leading to the center of the medieval town. The historical castle contains three fascinating doors taken out of the surrounding city walls. Wisterias and bougainvilleas drape across the antique facades in the main square. You continue on the short walk to the coastal town of Portovenere and relax in the manicured charm of the promenade overlooking the colorful tower homes and tranquil fishing boats wading in the marina.

You return to the town of Corniglia after breakfast to meet with a local vintner working on the family vineyard growing along the hillside terraces. The coastal breeze adds to the unique and diverse flavors of the grapes, accompanying the minerals in the mountain soil. Your body craves the relaxing stroll along through the aisles of vines, passing the green leaves shading the dangling bushels. You grab a grape from the vine to feel the waxy, plump texture.

You taste the grape to discover sweet and sour juice. Your guide explains how grapes grown for wine work better under strain, fortifying the flavors brought forth during fermentation and aging. You can see the stunning layers of the town below, located at a height of nearly 330 feet above sea level. The pink, blue, and yellow pastel homes stand out from the verdant mountain ridges. The 377 stairs known as the Lardarina lead from the edge of town down to the water, where fishing boats rest.

The 14th-century gothic church contains a similar artistic façade as the white and black stripes of the church in Levanto. You follow your guide to the heart of town and enter a small enoteca, a wine shop. The owner of the shop greets you with a friendly smile and happily pours you a sample of the wines grown around Cinque Terre. The cozy ambiance and friendly attention add to the unforgettable experience as you sip your first sample. The aromas of vanilla and citrus fruits emanate from the glass.

In the morning, you find the scent of herbaceous gattafin filling the gallery of the bakeries. The fritter filled with wild herbs and pecorino cheese offers a creamy, seductive, and vibrant flavor at any time of the day. After breakfast, you take to the westerly trails along the coast to explore the villages on the cliffs leading to the town of Santa Margherita. You stop at Bonassola, the town north of Levanto. The water laps against the gold sand shores. You walk in the footsteps of Hemingway, who once described the ambiance of Bonassola as “So sweet, unforgettable, and inexhaustible.” The scent of cappuccino complements the subtle aroma of the sea.

Gelateries open their doors along the narrow cobblestone streets. Old men play cards in the corner bars and talk politics with exaggerated gesticulations. Children stand on the small rocky outcroppings and dangle their fishing lines into the water. You pass the colorful homes at the heart of the town and continue away from the sporadic palm trees to the ancient hamlet of Framura. Five small villages create the overall town located amongst the cliffs and pine forests. Vineyards and homes overtake the terraces overlooking the small beach nestled amidst the cove. The medieval 12th-century castle hides amongst the trees with hints of the Ligurian architecture popular during the time period. You follow the path around the hamlet of Costa to find the hidden sundrenched vineyards of the region, which produce the special wine varietals sweeping across the otherwise rugged terrain.

The calm waters and colorful homes of Santa Margherita materialize like a painting in the morning light. The picture-perfect seaside ambiance emanates from the seaside promenade looking out on the moored sailboats and fishing vessels. The cathedral crowns the upper-terrace with a bell tower rising above the palm and cypress trees. The Portofino Peninsula provides a mixture of amazing panoramas and magnificent woodlands giving way to orange groves, lemon trees, and olive orchards. The undulating hills lead to a steep descent, where you find the hidden abbey of San Fruttuoso. The turquoise water laps against the soft gold sand framed by the rugged outcroppings of boulders.

Monks founded the abbey in the 10th century and renovated the edifice continuously until the 16th century. The tide once rolled beneath the lower cloister, allowing boats to moor beneath the abbey. Romanesque windows and archways give a sense of the antique stone and design. The interior halls contain elements of Ligurian style with the black and white stripes you have learned to expect. The scent of fresh pasta and grilling fish emanates from the small restaurants nestled between the abbey and the rocks offering seats and umbrellas to patrons. Lounge in the comforts of the warm Mediterranean sunlight before boarding a boat bound for the town of Camogli. Your skipper takes you over the sunken statue Christ of the Abyss, which is located 50 feet beneath the surface of the sea.

In the morning, the aroma of espresso fills the air and overtakes the subtle scent of the Mediterranean Sea. The sunlight washes over the memorial statue of Vittorio Emanuele, the king who united Italy in the mid-19th century. The water of the Christopher Columbus Fountain trickles in the quiet ambiance of the main square set beneath the castle of Villa Durazzo. Beachgoers relax on the sands of Paraggi Beach and enjoy the cool waters on lapping against their warm skin. After a traditional breakfast of a cappuccino and sweet brioche, your private transfer greets you at the hotel. You make your way along the coast to the Ligurian capital of Genoa to arrive at Cristoforo Colombo Airport for your flight home.